The booster will rust out usually well before corrosion takes the master cylinder.
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261,ISH
- oil/filter change
- new PS belt
- cable adjustment
After 1,000+ miles of struggling to find, make, beg, borrow, or steal time for an oil change and PS belt install, I’m sure 0w20 will be fine for 3,ISH miles to a summer oil change with 30 weight. (Sorry, Lance.)
What’s it gonna do, make more noise? I’m not pulling that fucking intake unless I have to. I park nose-up on a hill. It’s gonna tick. If anything, I’m curious if it gets up to the heads quicker and/or maybe flushes the lifters.
Besides, I’m the first kid on the block running green oil.
In all seriousness, though, having power steering again is the MVP here. 33s and recirculating ball steering. My forearms. Wow.
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I think that oil might be too thin. Next payday, I’m adding a little Seafoam and doing another oil change.
Should have bit the bullet and done lifters when we did the engine swap, but such is life.
In other news, the vinyl stripes were finally showing their age and had to come off. Feels weird.
Spring is here in the sense that Summer is on its way. It’s high time I got my shit–and by extension, my truck–together so we’re ready to roll on short notice. There’s some Hip Camp exploring to do in the area, and we’re looking into destinations further afield for summer. Colorado, even!
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I wouldn’t put seafoam in anything.
What oil is factory? 5w30?
You may want to switch to a high-mileage full synthetic with a better additive package.
If you’re not doing oil analysis, you’re guessing. Blackstone is cheap $35 - SpeedDiagnostix is great but too rich at $75 a sample.
EDIT: The “new” european formulas are leaning towards newer cars with direct injection. Which means LESS additives - this could do more harm than good.
Does the ticking go away once the truck is all warmed up?
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I hear ya. Might skip the Seafoam this time.
OE recommendation is 5w30 for up to 100°F ambient. Good point about the additives. I used to run the full synthetic T6 Rotella for just that reason. Found the Liqui Moly to be similar, if not better quality, at a better price, with a better experience, so this is my second or third oil change with them (though first with the green stuff).
I trust the oil analysis science, but have never felt a need. What are they going to tell me that I don’t already know? It’s a 26-year old truck with 260k on the bottom end (fresh rings/bearings at 200k). I put five quarts of clean oil in. 5,000 miles later, I drain a little less than four quarts of dark, dirty oil. It’s always smelled like fuel and been a little bit sparkly. #internalcombustionamirite
There’s metal/fuel in your oil. I know.
It’s probably from your rings/bearings. I know.
You should change your oil more often. Maybe, but I know.
You should use a high quality, fully synthetic oil in the proper viscosity. Totally.
You should spend $35 twice a year so you can see how much your internals are dissolving. Pass.
I can totally see it for high performance machines that see any amount of severe duty or stress. SoCal Freeways? HPDE Track Days? In anything that spends more than a few minutes a week above 4,000rpm or is otherwise built/tuned? Absolutely. But for an old tractor that seldom averages more than about five minutes of highway speed a week, I think it’s overkill.
Change my mind?
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Finally went camping.
We did a 4-day / 4-night recon of the Trans-Wisconsin Adventure Trail. It was my first real camping trip in over two years, since leaving Phoenix.
We followed the Great River Road a bit near Prairie du Chien before taking gravel back roads through the prettiest farms I’ve ever seen.
Lol. Maybe not that one, but the size of some of these structures was pretty incredible. They had to have made all that lumber.
Fezzik performed flawlessly.
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That looks awesome, super jelly, can’t wait til the boys are just a bit older.
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It’s a different kind of camping than anything I’ve ever experienced before. It’s not bad. It’s just different. And it takes a different approach. There’s a research and logistics piece that makes it interesting.
And you’d be surprised how young kids can be and do camping. I mean, have you read any of @haolepinoy 's work? It’s brilliant. Plus, I would think you might get access to some kind of special programs helping the boys connect to their own land, ya know? That would be pretty awesome.
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259,ISH (corrected)
- timing belt, tensioner, & pulleys underway
Rather conveniently, V&P are in Salt Lake City for 10 days, so I’ve got two full weekends to hopefully knock this one out. Not that I wanted to spend the week working on my truck. (I actually had a bunch of fun little around-the-house projects lined-out that got pushed as a result. Boo.)
Believe it or not, this is my first time doing the timing belt on Fezzik. 
Picture above is current state. Front skids dropped, intake, battery, radiator, & fan removed. Next step is sidelining PS, ALT, & AC, followed by front cover removal, belt alignment, & replacement. It’s not going bad, but it’s all dirty work.
A scandalous timing belt history
Mitsubishi recommends a 60k service interval due to the 6G74 being an interference engine. (If you don’t know, interference means pistons can smash valves when the belt snaps.) Given the importance of this service interval…
The original belt went 160k thanks to previous owner negligence. That’s almost twice as long as it should have been used. Adventure Driven Design installed Belt Two for me in exchange for some website building work and we were all blown away that the front case had never been opened prior to their doing so at 160k. I still have the belt as a garage totem.
Belt Three went on in 2021 at 230k. I paid a trusted shop to do all the things.
Now I’m sitting a hair under 260k and I’ve got something under the front case that sounds like a pulley freewheeling when it loses contact with the timing belt on revs. I still trust the shop and have nothing but love for them. That said, I’m excited to see the tensioner when I pull the covers.
Did they re-use the OEM from 160k and it went roughly 100k before starting to slip?
Did they install something generic and it only went about 30k before failure?
Either is a possibility at this point.
We’ll see.
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259,ISH (no change)
- ongoing timing belt job
- radiator fan bearing/bracket replacement
- harmonic damper replacement
Here’s a video of the sound prompting all this work:
I thought I caught a lucky break when I discovered the fan bearing/bracket was noisy:
Turns out the harmonic damper failed:
In Other News: 20K timing belt service interval
The hydraulic tensioner the shop installed is stamped “NTN”. The OEM in the unopened plastic bag with the Mitsubishi part number on it does not have such markings.
Based on the sticker, I’m sure of a couple things:
- MJ used a Gates belt kit (evidenced by the yellow sticker).
- I remember he incorrectly assumed a 100k service interval.
- Meaning the belt was changed at 239,000 miles, or about 20k ago.
- Non-OEM tensioners like to nuke engines around 45k, so this is a huge save.
- New parts are on the way from Rock Auto*.
*Best price on an OEM harmonic damper was $400+ shipping from Japan. I went with $70 from “Warehouse A”. (And a fan bearing from “Warehouse B”, and a pulley puller from “Warehouse C”. Ah, Rock Auto…
E: New Developments!
The hydraulic belt tensioner on the truck now is stamped “NTN 5”. The two most respected international parts houses–PartSouq and Amayama–are both showing an updated Mitsubishi part number for the tensioner. The pictures show “NTN 5” stampings and an OE Mitsubishi parts label. I might have dodged another bullet.
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